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Creating Your Style of Furniture

We stock all stain, wax, wire wool and many other items for finishing and aftercare of your furniture in our stores.

Thank you for investing in a piece of ‘Your Style’ unfinished solid pine furniture. We hope you gain great satisfaction in finishing and personalising your furniture.

When you receive your untreated ( ‘in the white’ ) pine furniture, it will be straight from the workshops, which will usually be ours, although we do have other selected suppliers. The substantial discount in the buying price you have obtained is to allow for your time in preparation and finishing.

The following tips are to help you obtain a wax finish.

Preparation

Please do initially make an examination of the furniture for any apparent manufacturing defects or damage as these cannot be rectified or exchanged after it has been polished. In the unlikely event of any serious construction faults our normal guarantee of exchange or repair would of course apply.

The very nature of pine means that ‘in the white’ items will have small shakes and nail holes that may need attention. The quality of the preparation is all important to the final finish.

Sanding

Pine furniture will have been sanded both during and after construction but will always need a degree of further preparation before finishing. If you are trying to achieve an Antique effect, ‘harrassing’ the piece ( removing sharp edges ) in the final sanding process will soften the look and simulate natural wear and tear. The final sanding can be carried out with fine grade sandpaper ( 150/180 grit ), de-nibbing pads or fine grade wire wool.

Filling small holes

Any nail holes or shakes that do require filling can be done with a water based stopper.

Bruises

Dents or bruises in pine can occur through knocks which compress the fibres of the wood.

When ‘in the white’ these can usually be effectively removed by wetting with very hot water and leaving 2-3 hours and then fine sanding. Make sure the timber is dry before applyingstain or polish.

Splinters

Small splinters of wood can be glued neatly into place whilst holding the piece in place with masking tape.

Applying stains

Before attempting to stain, try out the colour on a small area that cannot be seen to ensure it achieves the effect you require.

Should you require a lighter shade then simply dilute the stain with water to the required strength and colour.

Apply the stain evenly with a large or small brush depending on the areas and intracacies of the item.

Try to brush evenly with the grain, avoiding any gatherings in corners and mouldings - removing any excess with a muslin or similar cloth.

Be careful not to leave fingerprints in the stain as it dries.

Important: Be sure to finish the area in one go, as overlapping a previously stained area will cause patching.

Excess glue deposits may become visible during staining. These can be removed by careful sanding or by scraping with a sharp knife or chisel.

Allow 2-4 hours drying time at normal room temperature, then buff with wire wool before applying furniture waxes.

Waxing

There are a wide range of clear and tinted waxes, so choose the right one for the effect you require, then simply follow these guidelines:

Flat areas

These are best covered by using a lint free cloth pad. Apply the wax generously using a circular motion to push the wax into the grain.

Finish by moving the cloth with the grain, and remove excess.

Intricate & delicate areas

For more difficult areas such as carvings, turnings or inside corners a short bristly paint brush can be used to apply the wax.

A separate dry brush can be used to remove excess wax.

Buffing

After the wax has been allowed to dry, buff the piece using a soft cotton close-weave lint-free cloth, or a fine wire wool.

Timber, being a natural porous material, soaks up the wax, so after 6 to 8 weeks repeat the above process.

For a more durable finish

Should you require a more durable finish, for example, on a table top, a clear standing sealer may be applied after staining but before waxing, on both sides of the top. When dry wax as below.

Lacquered

For furniture that is likely to be situated where it may come in contact with water or steam, for example if there are children about, or in a bathroom we advise you to use a polyurethane varnish to protect the timber. It is important that both sides of a table are coated with the varnish or wax, so no warping of the top occurs.

Waxed

To achieve a longer lasting colour with a wax finish, we recommend that after the timber has been stained to your desired shade or colour, coat both sides of a table top with a sanding sealer.

When dried ‘de-nib’ ( smooth off ) with wire wool the visible / display surface, then dust off with a clean lint free cloth. Apply a generous coating of wax in the direction of the timber, wipe off any excess, allow to dry then buff off with the grain with more fine wire wool.

All the information given on this site is for guidance only and we cannot accept responsibility for damages or incorrect colour matching etc. We only take responsibility for manufacturing defects as part of our standard terms and conditions.